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Washington State Wine Round-up

by Darryl Beeson

Located on approximately the same latitude (46ºN) as some of the great French wine regions of Bordeaux and Burgundy, Washington State wine "Touring" country includes 9 federally recognized American Viticultural Areas (AVA's), commonly known as appellations; three of them share territory with Oregon State. Climates of individual Washington wine regions differ dramatically, being cross cut north to south by the Cascade Mountains.

A variety of climates and soils combine with the long summer sunlight hours of northern latitudes to create prime growing regions, predominantly in the valleys and on the hillsides of areas east of the Cascade Mountain range. Washington wineries benefit from grapes ripening in these areas which experience about two more hours of summer sunlight each day than in California wine regions. Gradually cooling autumn temperatures in Washington also help wine grapes reach full maturity, while maintaining desirable acid levels.

Vineyards on the east side of the Cascades grow 99% of Washington's wine grapes. Seven of the state's eight official AVA/appellations are located here -- the macro appellation of the Columbia Valley encompasses the smaller Yakima Valley AVA, Red Mountain AVA, Walla Walla Valley AVA, Horse Heaven Hills, Wahluke Slope and Rattlesnake Hills (Washington State's newest appellation). The Columbia Gorge AVA begins at the western edge of the Columbia Valley AVA and continues west and south to areas along the Columbia River in both Oregon and Washington. Two other emerging regions benefit from the huge rain shadow created by the Cascade Mountains, the North-Central Washington region (often referred to as the Columbia Cascade region) and the Lake Chelan area (AVA application in process).

All totaled, Washington wine regions produce more wine grapes than any other state in the U.S., except California. Wine grapes are now the fourth most important fruit crop in Washington State behind apples, cherries and pears. The following wines are in limited distribution. Look for them when in Washington state.

Griffins Crossing Cabernet Blend, Columbia Valley 2004
Price $22
Rating 87
The nose offers black cherry, cranberry and freshly tilled top-soil from the garden. The sip is soft, perhaps a bit diluted. Serve with firm fleshed fish, sautéed, or with make chicken laced with rosemary. More details are at www.griffinscrossing.com.

XSV Chardonnay, Columbia Valley 2003
Price $18
Rating 90
The nose gives cinnamon, banana, pear and vanilla laced within toasty oak. The sip is soft and expansive with more tropical fruit and brown spice within the good length. Go to their website at www.xsvintners.com.

XSV Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley 2002
Price $23
Rating 92
The nose is somber and reserved with black fruit and nuances of earth. There are flavors of black fruit, mocha and more earth in the elegant, long length. The tannins are soft, so serve this one with filet of beef, veal chop or even firmly fleshed, non-oily fish. Go to their website at www.xsvintners.com.

Willow Crest "Rocking Red" Yakima Valley 2003
Price $10
Rating 88
The nose is spicy with wild-like berry fruit. The sip is light and bright with cranberry and tart plum. Learn more at www.willowcrestwinery.com.

Willow Crest Pinot Gris, Yakima Valley 2005
Price $10
Rating 90
The nose displays crisp, citrus-like fruit and mineral. The style is a little more delicate than the Pinot Gris from Oregon. The sip is refreshing and interesting with different layers in the medium long length. Learn more at www.willowcrestwinery.com.

Roza Ridge Vineyards Merlot, Yakima Valley 2002
Price $19 estimated
Rating 86
A sniff reveals earthy notes with briar-patch fruit nuances. The sip is very light with raspberry and mocha notes. The tannins are soft, so serve this one with filet of beef, veal chop or even firmly fleshed, non-oily fish.

Whitman Cellars "Narcissa" Red Wine, Walla Walla 2003
Price $28
Rating 92
The blend is 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 20% Syrah, aged 18 months in French and American barrels. The nose offers soft earth and slight hints of dark fruit. There are flavors of blackberry, black cherry; baker's chocolate and mineral in the long, delicate length.

This wine is named for Narcissa Whitman, a frontier-woman and wife of missionary Marcus Whitman. She and another woman were the first Caucasian women to cross the Rocky Mountains and settle in what is now Walla Walla, Washington (1836). Visit the website at www.whitmancellars.com.

Pentin del Roza White Riesling, Yakima Valley 2005
Price $13
Rating 89
The sip is driven by subtle green apple and mineral. The wine is chewy and complex on the palate.

Sandhill Merlot, Red Mountain 2002
Price $26
Rating 91
The nose is somber and complex with ripe plum and mineral. The sip is delicate with dark fruit, mocha and mineral in the medium to good length.


About the Author

Darryl Beeson - Over the past decade, as sommelier or cellar master of hotels such as The Gaylord Texan, The Mansion on Turtle Creek and The Adolphus Hotel's French Room, Beeson helped garner awards such as the Wine Spectator's Grand Award, Food & Wine Magazine's B