Where are top chefs and cooking schools looking to find new inspiration, from wine to food? Spain. This past Fall, two of the most prestigious cooking schools in the U.S., the French Culinary Institute (now the International Culinary Center) in New York City, and the Culinary Institute of America at Greystone in Napa, CA, dedicated major symposiums on Spanish wine and food for students, chefs, media and culinary educators. Spain's most innovative chefs and winemakers flew in to conduct detailed workshops, inspiring wine tastings, and dramatic cooking demonstrations. Both events drew capacity audiences.
Michael Green, wine and spirits consultant for Gourmet Magazine and a frequent lecturer on wine concludes that Spanish wines have reached, what he calls, "the sipping point."
"Spanish wines are no longer in the back corner of a wine shop, or on the last page of a restaurant wine list. They are taking front and center," said Green. "Today Spanish wines can be found in restaurants serving Asian, Indian, French and contemporary American food. Spanish wines continue to deliver excellent value, and now even more variety, as shipments from up and coming wine regions of Spain make their way to restaurant and retailers throughout the U.S."
The U.S. Department of Commerce reported that exports of Spanish wines to the U.S. have increased 17% (as of August 31, 2006), and total imports of Spanish wines have increased 100% since 2000.
"While Spanish wines are increasingly "hot" in the U.S., the rise in popularity has not happened overnight ," says Katrin Naelapaa, director of Wines from Spain, a division of the Trade Commission of Spain in New York City. "The process has been evolutionary with most of these developments taking place over the last two decades."
The third largest wine producing country in the world, Spain has been producing wine since 300 B.C. Historically, Spanish wines were a bit too "old world" meaning aged for long periods of time, perhaps in a tired, so-called traditional style.
"While these wines have always been appreciated by the wine cognoscenti, they are just the tip of the iceberg in terms of where Spanish wines are today," said Naelapaa. "In the late 20th century, a new, young and very talented generation of winemakers started experimenting with modern wine making techniques and cultivating very old varieties of Spanish grapes. These new styles of Spanish wines were full of flavor and fruit, and they added a new depth and dimension to Spain's wine culture. Regions like Toro, Priorat and Bierzo have now become as fashionable for their fragrant red wines, as their more famous cousins, Rioja and Ribera del Duero."
Another development, according to Naelapaa, is the small and influential group of wine importers who have dedicated all or a major portion of their portfolios to carrying quality Spanish wines from various regions.
"You also can't discount the fact that the most famous chef in the world, Ferran Adrià of El Bulli, is from Spain," added wine consultant Michael Green. Spain has become a mecca for those who travel to eat. U.S. chefs have been flocking to Spain to seek culinary inspiration from chefs like Adrià, Juan Mari Arzak, the father of modern Spanish cuisine, and Paco Torreblanca, the ground-breaking pastry chef. The results here in the U.S. are more Spanish-inspired menus, from tapas restaurants to the use of Spanish cooking techniques and ingredients, including piquillo peppers, sherry wine vinegar, Spanish olives, and white anchovies.
"Not since Columbus' voyage to America has the influence of Spain been this strong on these shores, at least on the culinary frontier," said Naelapaa.
Wines from Spain, a division of the Trade Commission of Spain, aims to create greater awareness and increased sales of Spanish wines in the U.S. through promotional and educational activities focused on both trade and consumers. It is the primary information source on Spanish wines for wine professionals, media and consumers www.winesfromspainusa.com.
Spanish wines-the facts
According to Michael Green, wine and spirits consultant for Gourmet Magazine, there are four things every savvy consumer should know about Spanish wines:
1. "Cava: The Ultimate Champagne Stunt Double" - Spain is the largest producer of sparkling wine in the world. Cava, which is produced in the classic méthode champenoise, is Spain's official sparkling wine, produced in the northeast DO Pénédes region above Barcelona. Cava, like any sparkling wine, should not be served just for special occasions. It can be enjoyed through an entire meal, from start to finish.
2. "You Can Call Me 'Sherry'"- Sherry is the most under-appreciated and under-valued wine in the world. Sherry is only made in Spain, in the southeast region of Andalucia, which is also famous for its tapas, Spain's little dishes usually served with a dry fino sherry. With styles that can range from bone dry (fino) to rich and nutty (amontillado) to lusciously sweet (oloroso), sherry is a great wine to enjoy throughout the year and, especially, with holiday dishes from roasted winter vegetables to pumpkin pie. Says Green, "Looking for an 'adult' hot fudge sundae? Throw some rich sweet Pedro Jiménez (PX) sherry over vanilla ice cream."
3. "10 Spot" - There is no wine region in the world that can compete with Spain when it comes to quality, diversity and value, from mouth-watering white wines like Albarino, which pair well with seafood dishes, to fruit- forward Crianza Rioja wines that pair well with roast chicken or salmon. Says Green, "In a world of homogenized wine production, Spain produces distinct wines at great price points."
4. "Life Beyond Rioja" Green says that while Rioja is indeed still Spain's "red wine ambassador," there are dozens of other Denominations of Origen (DO's) that offer complex and compelling wines with distinct styles and flavors that reflect the local grapes and terroir of their regions. According to Green, up-and-coming "sleeper" regions not to be missed include the wines of Bierzo, Somontano, Jumilla and Yecla.
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Darryl Beeson travels the world, looking for great wine finds. He is a sommelier, a professional wine judge , and teaches for The International Sommelier Guild (www.internationalsommelier.com).
