Washington State is the nation’s second largest producer (behind California) of premium wines with 300 grape growers, 30,000 vineyard acres and more than 325 wineries. In 1981 there were 19 wineries; 5 years ago there were 155 and one winery owner told me he believes that in 5 years there will be 500 wineries. More than 15 wine grape varieties are grown (57% red and 43% white wine) including Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewurztraminer and Pinot Gris.
Washington’s northerly latitude (the same as Burgundy & Bordeaux) averages two more hours of daily sunlight (17.4 hours) than California’s major growing regions, allowing grapes to fully ripen. It also means that the grapes must struggle to survive in the rich volcanic soil surrounding Mount Rainier and Mount St. Helens (no vineyards there) with the snow melt from the mountains providing natural irrigation to the vineyards. The fruit ripens over a longer time frame and combined with the warm daytime temperatures that can reach over 100 degrees and cool nights allows the fruits natural acids to remain high, creating well-balanced wines. Before my trip I believed the myth about the cold, rainy climate where everyone drank Starbucks coffee to keep warm.
There are six major AVAs (American Viticultural Areas) including Yakima Valley, the first AVA established in 1983 with about 40 wineries & 10,000 acres of vineyards. Walla Walla was established in 1984 and includes land in both Washington & Oregon and more than 55 wineries and over 1,200 acres of vineyards. Columbia Valley established in 1984 is Washington’s largest AVA and includes vineyards in Washington & Oregon with over 25 wineries and almost 17,000 vineyard acres. Puget Sound was established in 1995 with 35 wineries and about 100 acres of vineyards growing cool climate grapes such as Muller Thurgau, Siegerrebe and Muscat Canelli (most of the grapes, however, are sourced from eastern Washington). Washington’s smallest AVA is Red Mountain established in 2001 with a dozen wineries and about 700 vineyard acres and sits within the borders of the Yakima Valley. Columbia Gorge is the newest AVA with four Washington wineries and approximately 300 acres.
The Cascade Range divides both Oregon & Washington almost in half. Whereas the majority of vineyards are west of the mountains in Oregon they are east in Washington. I sort of followed the old adage that Oregon made excellent red wines and Washington white wines (think Salmon) but decided to test the theory during this trip. You can read the results as I covered most of the major wine regions in a very short time. That meant starting before 8AM & tasting, but not necessarily swallowing, through lunch and dinner as well as visiting 6 to 8 wineries a day, plus meeting with winemakers and owners at lunch and dinner.
Visiting Napa and Sonoma from San Francisco is a breeze; start tasting and visiting in a bit over 1 hour. Long Island requires patience navigating the Long Island Expressway and averages 2 ½ hours from Manhattan. Arriving in Seattle I flew a commuter airline and in 45 minutes (it is a 3 hour drive) I began my journey in the Yakima Valley, which produces over 75% of the hops used in the production of beer. My three days in eastern Washington covered about 135 miles and took me to 25 wineries whose sales ranged from 2,000 to over ½ million cases. The one dominating factor during all my visits was the passion and commitment of everyone involved to make superb wines no matter what size winery was involved. During my ½ day in western Washington (Woodinville) I visited 5 wineries that all sourced their fruit from the eastern part of the state. A few of the wineries I visited were still looking for representation in the New York/New Jersey area and I have noted that in this story. The Wine Spectator has honored Washington State by naming 7 of its wines in the 2004 Top 100 wines of the world.
Wineries visited- YAKIMA AREA-
Bonair Winery- Started 1985- 5,000 case production- In house art gallery- Chardonnay, Cabernet and Honey Mead. Look for Bung, the 12 year old Australian Shepherd.
Silver Lake Winery- Started 1989- 40,000 cases- Customers can buy shares in the winery- Try Claret, off-dry Riesling and their sparkling wine.
Portteus Vineyards- Began in 1984- 8,500 cases- First all estate-bottled winery in Washington (60 acres of vineyards) - Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve & off-dry Zinfandel.
Apex Cellars- Art Deco winery started in 1988- 30,000 cases- Late Harvest Riesling & Syrah. Brian Carter has been making wine for 25 years & is the only three time winner of the Northwest Enological Society wine judging.
Hogue Cellars- Founded 1982- 580,000 cases- Since 2001 owned by Vincor (Inniskillin- Canada & RH Phillips- California). Try the Fume Blanc & Riesling. Next year will be bottled using screw tops, a first for Washington State
Kestrel Vintners- 1995 founded- 12,000 cases- Very unusual Chardonnay Ice Wine, also “old vines”(30 years old) line of wines (Merlot & Cabernet).
Snoqualmie Vineyards- 100,000 cases- started in 1984 but winery facility is only 1 ½ years old- Owned by same company as Chateau Ste. Michelle (see Woodinville section below)- Cabernet/Merlot blend and Reserve Syrah.
TRI-CITIES AREA-
Hedges Cellars- 65,000 cases- Bordeaux style blends of 100% estate grown Cabernet & Merlot have been their hallmark since 1987 (sourced from Red Mountain fruit) - Their chateau styled winery features 4 VIP themed rooms.
Kiona Vineyards Winery- Started in 1980- 25,000 cases- unusual Austrian variety Lemberger & Chenin Blanc Ice wine grabbed me.
Terra Blanca Winery- (available in 2005 in NY/NJ)- 25,000 cases- begun in 1993- Winery dug deep into Red Mountain with panoramic view- Does large custom crush business- Syrah & botrytis-affected dessert wines.
Bookwalter Winery- Begun in 1983- 12,000 cases- Opened Washington’s first wine lounge & patio bar- Merlot & Cabernet- well known winemaker Zelma Long is their consultant.
Barnard Griffin- Began in 1983- 60,000 cases- Owns no vineyards and buys fruit from many growers- 60% of production from white wines (Semillon, Fume Blanc)- Try Columbia Gorge Zinfandel.
Gordon Brothers Cellars- 25,000 cases- all estate bottled (100 acres) - started in 1982- Syrah, Cabernet, Merlot and Tradition, a Bordeaux style red blend.
WALLA WALLA AREA-
Woodward Canyon Winery- 15,000 cases- began in 1981- big buttery Chardonnay, old vine Cabernet & Artist Series Cabernet.
L’Ecole No.41- Since 1982- 30,000 cases- Tasting room is formerly a 2 room school house (Ecole) - Specialty is white wines, also Cabernet & Bordeaux style blends.
Reininger Winery- 8,500 cases from brand new winery (40% sold out of the winery) - Old winery started in 1997- Syrah, Cabernet & Merlot.
Basel Cellars Estate Winery- 4,000 cases- 2001 was first year- Only makes Merlot & Cabernet- 13,000 square foot lodge (18 guests) was originally built as a private home for $14 million. Includes private screening room, Jacuzzis, sauna, pool & fly fishing. Winery is underneath the lodge.
Northstar Winery- Started 1994- Owned by same company as Chateau Ste. Michelle- 15,000 cases of ultra-premium Merlot- Famed winemaker Jed Steele is the consultant.
Pepper Bridge Winery- 4,000 cases- Started in 2000- 100% estate bottles- intense Bordeaux style reds- Cabernet & Merlot. Swiss born winemaker, Jean-Francois Pellet is third generation wine grower.
Abeja- Started 2000- 4,500 cases- 24 acres of vineyards- Cabernet, Chardonnay & Viognier- Five room inn converted from farmhouses built around 1903.
Bergevin Lane Vineyards- 6,000 cases- started in 2001- Viognier, Calico Red-Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Zinfandel & Cabernet Franc.
Dunham Cellars- 1995 started- 11.000 cases- Recent Wall Street Journal article rated their Syrah “Best of Tasting”; also Cabernet & Semillon.
James Leigh Cellars- 2,000 cases- started in 2001- Cabernet, Syrah & their Bordeaux blend. Concentrating on estate wines from 40 acre vineyard.
WOODINVILLE AREA (¾ hour northeast of Seattle)-
Chateau Ste. Michelle- Washington’s oldest winery -1934- 1 million cases, plus 260,000 cases of Domaine Ste. Michelle sparkling wine (bottled at Columbia Crest, also same ownership and Washington’s largest winery at 1 ½ million cases)- Owned since 1970 by US Tobacco- Eroica is a joint venture with Germany’s Dr. Ernest Loosen , both dry & dessert Rieslings. Over 30 different wines produced.
De Lille Cellars- 5,000 cases-1992 began- Bordeaux style wines- Cabernet/Merlot/ Cabernet Franc, Syrah and Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon blend.
Woodhouse Family Cellars- 4,000 cases- began in 1998- winery is brand new- several labels including Kennedy Shaw where a large portion of the profits support women & children organizations- Darighe is their Meritage wine- Maghie Cellars for Reserve Merlot.
Columbia Winery- Since 1962- 160,000 cases- Washington’s first premium winery-David Lake MW (Master of Wine) has been the winemaker since 1979. Owned by Constellation Brands, produces three signature series of wines from noted Washington vineyards.
In all my tasting and meetings with winemakers and owners never did I hear- “We are just like California”. It was always- “We make world-class wines from Washington State and we are proud of it.
WEBSITES-
Washington Wine Commission- www.washingtonwine.org
Yakima Valley- www.wineyakimavalley.org
Tri-Cities- www.columbiavalleywine.com
Walla Walla- www.wallawallawine.com
Woodinville- www.woodinvillewinecountry.com
