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Boston Wine Expo 2007, World Trade Center, Boston Seaport Hotel

by Marc Hinton

The biggest and best wine Expo in the United States has now come and passed for this year and Enobytes was present. Our East Coast Tasting Judge attended and his observances were recorded by an interview that consisted of questions prepared by an envious West Coast Tasting Judge and the answers may or may not have been altered to protect the innocent and down play the debauchery.

J Mac, our East Coast Bureau representative attended the function that Enobytes was so graciously invited to by Ed Hurley and the wonderful folks at Resource Plus.

Arriving at the Expo via the “T “, our tasting judge chose the wisest method of transportation available. A decision supported by all involved and recommended for anyone who attends a wine tasting event where the option of public transportation is available for use, being the designated driver is not a conducive to a good wine tasting event.

Exiting the event via public transportation was also a great idea as the presence of Public Safety officers (Mass. State Police) was reported to be visible everywhere. Enobytes would like to comment that we support the presence of Police anywhere alcohol is being served. When Americans learn to drink like Europeans we might change our minds but until then, we need to be protected from ourselves.

The registration at the event was said to go off effortlessly, and the staff was cordial and respectful. One comment made by our attendee and others was the lack of a map for the event. When I have been involved in exhibiting at an event I know booth placement is something that all exhibitors try to jockey for the right placement. Without a map of designated assignments the placement priority is of the utmost importance for exhibitors. With a map, the popular and confident product marketers do not fear being overlooked and their placement is not as critical to their success. Maybe next year a map will be included.

The first exhibitor J Mac sampled turned out to be an old friend with a new name, well a new name for his winery. Cecil DeLoach formerly of DeLoach Vineyards is now producing wines under the Hook & Ladder moniker. Cecil was a San Francisco fireman before he headed north to pursue a successful career as one of Sonoma’s best winemakers. J Mac was impressed by the quality, style and value the Hook & Ladder varietals represented. Interpretation “they make tasty wine”.

J Mac then meandered towards the Mouton-Cadet booth. Here, he found very extensive floor plan, befitting one of the world’s biggest brands. A tall bar, along with bistro tables with tall stools offered a convenient place to collect his thoughts and plan the rest of the campaign.

J Mac arrived next at Chateau d’ Arlay’s booth where he was quickly seduced by their hospitality, history, uniqueness, and great products including the fortified wines that represent an almost forgotten craft. My level of envy was elevated to the point of planning a trip to this winery just to experience their hospitality and grace. So if you are near Arlay in southeastern France do yourself a favor and go see these guys.

By now Mr. J Mac had realized what a huge and daunting undertaking he had volunteered for, J Mac was chosen for this assignment because he is known for his fortitude and ability to stay focused under pressure. I understand all that was a moot point about an hour into the event. Our pre-event advice forewarned of the possibility that you might need to drop back to my operating standards, which are “Keep your head down, spit at least every other sip and when asked questions just mumble a lot”.

Facets of these events that always intrigue are the non-wine associated exhibitors and this event was no different. The hand rolled cigar exhibitor drew their share of attendees, and for good reason. A quality hand rolled cigar made as you wait for just $10 would have had me digging into my wallet. Albeit a little out of place in the midst of all the wine exhibitors but appreciated none the less by all who enjoy a good cigar.

Another exhibitor that did a great job of representing was Mikasa who came to challenge the myth that Reidel is the only glass worthy of drinking wine from. Mikasa now has a line of stemware called "Open Up", which is a versatile and elegant line of stemware with a patented impact resistant material. The OPEN UP collection comes in six styles, all featuring the unusual distinctive shape. Made of KWARX, their exclusive, patented new material, each glass is break resistant, as clear as crystal, lead-free, and stands up to 2,000 dishwasher cycles.

As the event progressed and our tasting judge focused on developing his story about polar opposite growing regions of Sauvignon Blanc and their distinct similarities.

As his crusade continued, J Mac commented on the most notable Cabernet being that of Pine Ridge from the Stags Leap district. Some Tuscan red wines J Mac tasted earlier were quite incongruent despite a price tag of $50 for one and $200 for the other. They tasted of similar quality and displayed similar characteristics.

The best Chardonnay of the Expo for our tasting judge were the French Chablis’, which were full, ripe and flinty. The Sauvignon Blanc that stood out was the Bancroft from New Zealand and the Sancerre’s from France.

Least favorite and most disappointing were the Louis Latour line of wines, J Mac and others lamented the decline of quality from this once venerable French producer.

The wines of Antinori were solid and predictable, with the value-priced Santa Cristina showing best of all as a simple, yet tasty, red table wine.

Highlights of the Expo included our tasting Judge actually meeting a couple of folks whose persona exuded the spirit of hospitality, and that would be Olivier Hillaire of Domaine Des Relanges whose high quality Cote du Rhones and Chateneuf du Papes are only slightly overshadowed buy the vintners personality. The other being Pascal Lafonde of Domaine Lafond also from the Rhone region whose warm welcome and endearing patience along with his seriously tasting wines out-classed all others.

On the subject of Cotes du Rhone, I surmise the rise of quality from the wines of the east banks of the Rhone River have cut into the distribution of Cote du Rhone wines as evident from the peculiar model enhanced endeavor presented by that regions Ministry of Commerce. Our attendee reported one of the most amusing spectacles at the Expo was the models in White and Red dresses with Red Sashes that said “Cote Du Rhone” on them, the marketing style coming off very much like models at an Auto Show.

Car show models at a wine event now that’s different, but I suspect the booth for Young Professionals would have been the most un-expected booth. I can grasp their marketing technique and the fact their demographic research shows a large percentage of Young Professionals gather at wine events. However I suspect most Young Professionals had other interests in mind (primarily drinking wine).

Best culinary diversion award goes to “Near East” our east coast tasting Judge loved the rice pilaf. When quizzed about what producer had made the most improvement, J Mac stated “anyone making Carmenere from South America”.

The hotel staff and all involved in the maintenance and upkeep of the facilities I hear are the folks who should be applauded the most. The consensus regarding the flow and control of the Expo was excellent. Well-controlled chaos; an extravaganza of palate pleasing tantalization.

If you have the opportunity make plans for next years festivities, I know we will be there so join Enobytes and celebrate all the wine world has to offer in one location with some of the most gracious host’s you will ever meet.


About the Author

Marc Hinton - Committed to celebrating hospitality with pride, Marc is a freelance writer for the Oregonian Wine Bytes blog and editor-at-large for the online wine publication enobytes.com. He has over 20 years experience in the food & wine industry, and his controvers