Q&A: Wine & Food Questions
Sauvignon Blanc
For as long as I remember Sauvignon Blanc always had a grassy, herbal, or vegetal taste. Now, over the last few years those flavors or taste has disappeared making this wine very enjoyable. And I'm talking about 100% Sauvignon Blanc. What has changed with this varietal?
Answer From Expert Roger C. Bohmrich, MW
The fundamental reason for the evolution in the taste profile of Sauvignon Blanc that you have correctly identified is a greater understanding of the factors involved in the creation of the most pronounced herbaceous attributes. While those who enjoy Sauvignon Blanc (as I do) certainly appreciate subtle "green" aromatic accents, wines which express pronounced vegetal characteristics such as asparagus are simply not very pleasant. This side of the variety is derived largely from methoxypyrazines, transferred from the leaves to the grapes. Studies have shown that vines in balance, without excessive foliage and with sufficient exposure of the grape bunches to light, tend to accumulate a lower concentration of methoxypyrazines. Finding the right crop level for a given vineyard (neither low nor high cropping) and summer thinning of the canopy are two key techniques grape growers have implemented which explain why Sauvignon Blanc from some regions is now less marked by strong grassy and vegetal aromas. This evolution is particularly evident in New Zealand Sauvignon.
About The Expert
Roger has enjoyed a lengthy career in the wine trade as an importer and retailer, and at present he is an educator, speaker and consultant. He set up and managed Millesima USA, a New York merchant affiliated with Europe's leader in direct sales of fine wines to consumers. Previously, he served as senior executive of Frederick Wildman & Sons, traveling regularly around the world to visit wineries and taste the new vintage from barrel. Roger became one of America's first Masters of Wine in 1993.
Visit Roger C. Bohmrich, MW's web site
