Q&A: Wine & Food Questions
wine headaches
In the answer to a recent question about white vs. red wine and headaches, Roger blamed sulfites in wine. Is there a study that he can point to that proves that theory? The reason that people get wine headaches has been studied many times and the cause of the headaches (in the studies that I have read) points to other natural components in wine, biogenic amines for instance (histamine and others). Especially for people who have a strong reaction to red wine, this is the likely cause of headaches. Some connection to malo-lactic fermentation and headaches has also been made, as that process messes with biogenic amines. The notion that sulfites in wine cause headaches remains a dogged rumor which is not supported by any study that I can find. Studies that I've read that implicate sulfites have not offered definitive proof.
Answer From Expert Roger C. Bohmrich, MW
I am happy to have your feedback as it gives me a chance to go further with this very complicated subject. Given the Q&A format, I am often unable to address all facets of challenging technical questions. First, to clarify, I did not "blame sulfites" in my previous answer, qualifying my reply by saying that "perhaps" sulfites may cause headaches, not having evidence either way. You are right to cite amines as a possible cause, and tannins and other compounds may also be responsible - not to mention the obvious role of alcohol itself. According to the information I have read, there is still a great deal science does not understand in this area. As Jamie Goode writes in "The Science of Wine," "the issue of adverse wine reactions is a complex one, and the scientific literature offers few clear indications of the culpable compounds." In a chapter entitled "Wine allergies," Goode makes the distinction between allergies and intolerance, which is far more common. He concludes by saying that "for those who suffer from adverse reactions to wine, it's a frustratingly cloudy picture that emerges." So, returning to this specific issue, I would like to take this opportunity to ask for a definitive answer - if it exists - to the question of whether sulfites could cause headaches for some individuals. Is there a qualified medical specialist or researcher reading the Q&A who can give us an informed response?
About The Expert
Roger has enjoyed a lengthy career in the wine trade as an importer and retailer, and at present he is an educator, speaker and consultant. He set up and managed Millesima USA, a New York merchant affiliated with Europe's leader in direct sales of fine wines to consumers. Previously, he served as senior executive of Frederick Wildman & Sons, traveling regularly around the world to visit wineries and taste the new vintage from barrel. Roger became one of America's first Masters of Wine in 1993.
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