Question: We had a wonderful claret by Sandeman while dining in London, but we have been unable to find it in the U.S. Can you recommend some other labels to try? Answer: Sandeman is a company usually associated with Port, Sherry and Madeira fortified wines, so I was surprised you had a claret from them. I've never seen a Sandeman claret in the U.S.A. Since it did not have the name of a Chateau on it, but that of a company brand name, it was probably an inexpensive claret. A good substitute would be any French red wines from Bordeaux in the moderate price range. Look for Appellation Controlee (the controlled name of the wine supervised by the French government wine laws) Bordeaux, "Bordeaux Superieur," "Medoc," "Haut Medoc," etc. Haut Medoc is the district where the great Chateaux are located such as Ch. Lafite- Rothschild, Ch. Mouton-Rothschild and Ch. Margaux, etc.  Excerpt from Wine Faqs: Real Questions-Real Answers by Anita L. Laraia- www.anitalaraia.com Question: To decant or to decant? I am trying to be funny but it seems to be serious business---following all of the regulations regarding the serving of wine. Please instruct me. Answer: All wines benefit from decanting, because it aerates the wine, lets it breathe. Only very old red wines should not be exposed to air for very long because they have such a fragile, delicate aroma. Every other type of wine needs air to release the beautiful aromas that have been trapped in the bottle. Professionals decant older red wines or vintage Porto off their sediment and that is the main purpose of decanting for these types of wine that throw a heavy sediment. Here are some other regulations, as you call them, for the proper service of wine.  Excerpt from Wine Faqs: Real Questions-Real Answers by Anita L. Laraia- www.anitalaraia.com Question: What are those "streaks" in my wine? Answer: The "streaks" in your wine are called the "legs". They fall like tears on the inside of your wine glass after you have finished swirling. The legs are a visual measure of the viscosity or thickness of the wine, and they are related to the glycerol content of the wine, which is related to the alcohol content, and sugar content or ripeness of the grapes used to make the wine. Wines that are more viscous, with more slowly forming and thicker legs, are said to be heavier in "body". Light bodied wines have virtually no legs and look like water when you swirl them in your glass. So in wine terms, "legs" are an eyeball measure of the "body" of the wine, whether heavy or full-bodied, medium-bodied, or light-bodied. It's a judgment call, that usually only professional tasters are interested in when they rate a wine on a numerical scale. But now you can act like a wine judge and know what you see when you swirl and wait for the legs!  Excerpt from Wine Faqs: Real Questions-Real Answers by Anita L. Laraia- www.anitalaraia.com  "Filmmaker/winemaker Francis Ford Coppola says the two professions are almost the same and that each depends on source material and takes a lot of time to perfect. The big difference: Today’s winemakers still worry about quality." ~~ Arizona Republic, January 22, 1998.  Excerpt from Vintage Humor for Wine Lovers by Malcolm Kushner Question: What is the best wine to gift for a close friend's Anniversary? Answer: What a thoughtful friend you are! The perfect wines to give as Anniversary gifts are either those they can consume then and there to celebrate, such as French Champagne, or fine red wines or vintage Portos that can be saved and aged until the 10th anniversary. So if you want French Champagne, buy Brut Vintage if you can afford it. Brut means dry, and Vintage means from a single vintage year that is declared great. Best brands include: In the $35 price range MUMM Cordon Rouge, POMMERY, TAITTINGER Brut La Francaise, HEISIECK, VEUVE CLICQUOT etc. These also go all the way up to $90 per bottle for their best "cuveé"-such as Dom Perignon, Cuvee Louise, Taittinger Comtes de Champagne, and Fleur de Champagne in hand painted flower bottle by Perrier-Jouet. Any Vintage Porto--especially 1994s on the market now--will be great for keeping 10-15 years. Any great Cabernet Sauvignon from California or red Bordeaux will also make a fantastic gift for saving 10 years. Go to the best wine store in your area and ask their wine consultant to find these items in your price range. My suggestion is the immediate gratification of good French Champagne!  Excerpt from Wine Faqs: Real Questions-Real Answers by Anita L. Laraia- www.anitalaraia.com Question: I have long heard that the best wines in the world are French, and that in the four major classifications they are Romanee-Conti (red burgundy), Chateau Lafite Rothschild (red bordeaux), Le Montrachet (white burgundy), and Chateau d'YQuem (white bordeaux). Would you agree? Answer: The only reason people get away with even discussing the "top" French wines is that unlike our U.S.A. wine laws, the French government wine laws actually have official "rankings" of certain types of French wines. They rank red Bordeaux wines from the Medoc for instance and have 5 chateaux that rate in the highest category: Ch. Lafite-Rothschild, Ch. Mouton- Rothschild, Ch. Latour, Ch. Margaux, Ch. Haut-Brion. All five are of equivalent quality--so no Lafite is not the only top rated red Bordeaux. Same goes for the classification of Sauternes from Bordeaux--Ch. d'Yquem is the only Sauternes rated above the others however, so yes, it is for Sauternes (not for all white Bordeaux because Graves has its own classification). As for Romanee-Conti, yes it is rated a "Grand Cru" single vineyard in Burgundy, but there are 29 other vineyards rated "Grand Cru" in the Cote d'Or best part of Burgundy where it's located. But it is certainly one of the most costly red Burgundies and with great collector's value. And finally, Le Montrachet is also one of the 30 "Grand Cru" single vineyards in the Cote d'Or of Burgundy. But among white Burgundy wines, yes it is considered to be the rarest and most costly collector's item among the great white Burgundies. Go into a fine wine store with a temperature- controlled wine vault to find them.  Excerpt from Wine Faqs: Real Questions-Real Answers by Anita L. Laraia- www.anitalaraia.com Question: We always order antipasti at our local Italian restaurant and love the platter of salami, cheeses, peppers, etc. We usually have a white wine, but what a red better? Answer: Being Italian-American, I love Italian wines and food and can give you several red wine suggestions for antipasti. The traditional antipasti with proscuitto, salami, peppers, cheeses etc. is perfectly partnered by the Italian red grape SANGIOVESE which originates from Tuscany and is used to make CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVAS (the best type of Chianti), ROSSO DI MONTALCINO (less expensive version of the great Sangiovese red called Brunello di Montalcino), and many other Tuscan reds just simply labeled SANGIOVESE for the grape variety. The reason Sangiovese is so good with Antipasti is that it is not too heavy--medium bodied--has aromas of cherries in brandy--and more acidity than tannin (astringency), so it's smoother than most other Italian red wines. Of course Sangiovese is also grown in California and Argentina too, and they are also very good. But try the Italian versions first--many can be bought in the U.S. at $8-$10 a bottle for the simply labeled Sangiovese.  Excerpt from Wine Faqs: Real Questions-Real Answers by Anita L. Laraia- www.anitalaraia.com Question: How can I make wine my career? Answer: There are a number of careers in wine: winemakers, viticulturalists (vineyard managers), winery restaurant chefs, marketers, public relations managers (either at a winery or with a firm that specializes in the wine industry), accountants, general managers, winery owners, investors, retailers, importers, buyers, sommeliers, auctioneers, consultants, tour operators, accessory store managers, events organizers, tasting room managers and writers. Think carefully about what skills you have and what type of work you like because these jobs vary dramatically in what they entail. Think too of considerations such as hours, pay and credentials required. I’ve written about winemakers and sommeliers (you can find these in my Articles section). For these and other careers, your best bet is talk to someone already doing that job and to shadow them for a day or two.

Natalie MacLean is the author of Red, White and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass. She was named the World’s Best Drink Writer for the articles and wine picks in her free wine newsletter available at www.nataliemaclean.com.
 Question: Why do they tell you to let the wine "breathe"? Answer: All wines benefit from a little "breathing" time after they are opened for two reasons: 1. To aerate the wine to remove any cellar smells and open up the aroma; and 2. To soften the tannins in the wine and make it taste smoother. This last reason particularly applies to young red wines, which have the most tannin (astringency). But simply pulling the cork does not open enough surface area to let the wine breathe, so the best way to let a wine breathe is to pour it into a wine glass, filling the glass no more than 1/3 full. Then by swirling the wine in the glass you can aerate it completely because of the wide surface area of the wine in the glass. Many wine experts also decant their wines to aerate them-the wine is aerated as it is poured through the air into the decanter. The only wines you do not let breathe in this way, are very old reds--they are rather fragile and their first aromas are superb, but quickly fade when they are exposed to the air. By the way, the saying goes: "air is the enemy of wine when too much of it oxidizes the wine and turns it brown; air is the friend of wine when it allows the wine to breathe in your glass." In other words, you want to ventilate your wines a bit, not hyperventilate them!  Excerpt from Wine Faqs: Real Questions-Real Answers by Anita L. Laraia- www.anitalaraia.com Question: What does the term "terroir" mean? In plain English please! Is it used exclusively with regard to French wines? Answer: Most Americans are terrified of this word because it is hard to pronounce- tair wahr-and it is a very hard concept to understand. "Terroir" is a French term--meaning differences in geography, soil and climate from one vineyard to the next will produce distinct differences in the taste of the wine even if they grow the same grapes. It is a term that originated in Burgundy, France-but it is important in every wine country. The finest and most expensive wines in the world from any country-whether labeled by grape variety, controlled name of origin or level of quality by sugar content-- are "single vineyard" wines that name the individual vineyard where the grapes were grown. This is much like the difference in terroir that produces Kona Vintage Chocolate from Hawaii or Jamaica Blue Mountain Coffee. What a difference a place makes. Finally, the reputation of the winery and its winemaker are also an indication of quality-as is the vintage year, the year of harvest, on the label. The vintage year is not the year the wine was made since some wines are in production for 2-3 years. Every year all wineries have to grow an entire new crop of grapes. Some years the weather is good and the harvest of fruit (grapes) is good. Without good grapes you cannot make good wine. If the weather is not good during a growing season, it is not rated a good vintage year.  Excerpt from Wine Faqs: Real Questions-Real Answers by Anita L. Laraia- www.anitalaraia.com Question: Someone told me that Washington's wine country is on the same latitude as Bordeaux, France. Does that mean Washington produces the same type of high quality Cabernet/Merlot blends? Answer: Vineyards in Washington, the state just above Oregon, are at the same 46 degrees north latitude as Bordeaux, France. They cover the entire Columbia River basin in the dry, sagebrush-covered hills of the eastern part of the state. Because it is not rainy like the western side of the state which is on the Pacific Ocean, the vineyards are precisely irrigated, the growing season is extra long and the grapevines get two more hours of sunshine during the day than Napa Valley, California. The ideal of warm, dry days (for ripe fruit qualities) and cool nights (for good acidity) is achieved in almost every vintage. Even the deep, nutrient-poor, sandy loam soils are comparable to important parts of Bordeaux including St. Emilion, which is why the red Bordeaux varietals do as well in Washington. Other microclimates are great for every white grape variety including for the production of Dry Rieslings and Gewurztraminer. Consumers can find virtually every grape they could possibly desire in Washington. But to my mind, and as evidenced by their huge popularity in the marketplace, Washington Merlots are their very best wines-not just best red wine, but best wine, period.  Excerpt from Wine Faqs: Real Questions-Real Answers by Anita L. Laraia- www.anitalaraia.com Question: My heritage is Italian and I love pasta, but know nothing about Italian wines. Is there a shortcut to choosing the right wines for pasta? Answer: The sauce on the pasta determines what type of wine to choose. For instance, white clam sauce or pesto sauces are best with white wines such as Pinot Grigio or Gavi or Italian Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc etc. Red clam sauce or marinara sauces with sausage and peppers are best with red wines such as SANGIOVESE which is the famous red grape of Tuscany used in Chianti, Brunello, Rosso di Montalcino etc. Other great Italian red wines with pasta are Montepulciano d'Abruzzi, Barbaresco or Gattinara from the Piedmont, and Taurasi from Campania or Sicilian red wines etc. If you haven't tried a Sangiovese red, you owe it to yourself to buy one--even Bolla has one at $8 a bottle and there are many, many moderate price versions from Italy and lots of good ones slightly higher-priced from California. Best thing to do is visit a fine wine store and ask the wine consultant to give you a lesson on Italian wines as you are looking at the bottles and labels.  Excerpt from Wine Faqs: Real Questions-Real Answers by Anita L. Laraia- www.anitalaraia.com Question: I really enjoy seafood at this time of year-Spring-especially salmon, shrimp, and crab. However, I love red wine (Cabs and Merlots). How can I combine these two items without disrupting the flavor of both? Answer: There are several ways to have red wines with seafood, and lovely Spring weather. First, PINOT NOIR is my favorite red grape variety when eating grilled Salmon, and it pairs very well with other seafood dishes especially if Hong Kong or Hawaiian style steamed seafood with some soy/ginger in the sauce, or mushrooms or cheese. Second, MERLOT (as well as Pinot Noir) pairs well with the thick fish steaks such as Swordfish or Marlin. Very rare Tuna however is a hard match for most wines, but you can experiment (or cook the Tuna more thoroughly on the grill). Third, fried fish dishes such as fried oysters or fried clams or fried shrimp also seem to go well with Pinot Noir and Merlot, as well as the other lighter black grape varieties such as GAMAY BEAUJOLAIS from California or red SANCERRE from Loire region of France which is made with Pinot Noir or even a red ANJOU wine from the Loire which is a light style Cabernet Franc grape wine. In the Loire they have many fresh oysters and shellfish and these lighter wines match them very well.  Excerpt from Wine Faqs: Real Questions-Real Answers by Anita L. Laraia- www.anitalaraia.com Question: Recently I was served an unknown Austrian "Grunerveltliner" I know very little about this varietal and would like to learn more. Answer: In Austria the white grape variety Gruner Veltiner accounts for more than 1/3 of their vines. It makes a dry, light to medium body wine with crisp acidity and can be slightly "spritzig" which means little bubbles of carbon dioxide in the bottom of the glass left after fermentation. It is describes as having a smoky or white pepper aroma, and is not aged in oak so is meant to be consumed within 3 years of the vintage. Most are labeled "trocken" meaning dry. Austrian wines are hard to find in the U.S.A. Most major producers such as Lenz Moser produce a Gruner Veltliner. This grape is also grown in Hungary. If you cannot find it in your market-a good substitute could be a German "Trocken" or "Halb-Trocken) made from light, slightly aromatic grapes such as Pinot Blanc or Pinot Gris or Sylvaner. The most aromatic will be the Pinot Gris, called Pinot Grigio in Italy. It is slightlu spicy-not as spicy as Gewurztraminer. Alsace also makes good dry Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris-Alsace is on the French side of the Rhein River across from Baden, Germany. Price will depend on the reputation of the producer. And Austria produces excellent white, sweet, dessert wines that are labeled according to sugar content like German wines, so you can find Austrian Beerenauslese etc. that is wonderful. There are also several red wines from Austria available in the U.S.A.-I had a dry red called Zweigert after the grape variety that was fruity and similar to a Beaujolais in style. Austria's other famous red grapes include: Blaufrankisch and Lemberger. Go into a fine wine store in your area and ask to see these grape varieties from the countries you're interested in and you will find a range of prices and producers.  Excerpt from Wine Faqs: Real Questions-Real Answers by Anita L. Laraia- www.anitalaraia.com Question: I have a recipe for Venison Loin that calls for a Claret wine. Where I live wine is not a big deal. Can you tell me about it? I haven't found it yet. Answer: Claret is the name for any red Bordeaux wine blended from the Bordeaux black grapes Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Petit Verdot etc. They also use the name Claret for some California red wines that are blended like a Bordeaux from the same grapes. Claret or red Bordeaux wines are very: dry, concentrated, oaky, deeply berry flavored, and complex. They are the type of red wines used in sauce "Bordelaise" which means Bordeaux sauce used on Tournedos of Beef. Claret or red Bordeaux style wines are definitely main course wines perfect with Crown Roast of Lamb or Venison or Filet Mignon etc. In California, many upscale versions are called a "Meritage" red wine, which is their name for a red, or white Bordeaux blend. Even if you only have one wine store in your area that sells some good wine, you will be able to find a French red Bordeaux-- inexpensive ones include MOUTON CADET, or MEDOC or HAUT MEDOC--or the California versions which can be labeled simply: CABERNET SAUVIGNON (after the main grape), or MERITAGE RED or CLARET. Again, these can also be anywhere from inexpensive to moderately priced to expensive. You choose your price range.  Excerpt from Wine Faqs: Real Questions-Real Answers by Anita L. Laraia- www.anitalaraia.com Question: Why decant wine? Answer: Wines are decanted to get rid of sediment, the organic matter that naturally precipitates from the wine as it matures. The wines that throw the most sediment are mature, full-bodied red wines and vintage port. The second reason to decant is to let the wine breathe so that it helps to warm up a wine that’s too cold, soften any harsh tannins and open up its aromatics. This is especially true of rough-and-not-ready reds, particularly young, full-bodied ones: cabernet sauvignon, zinfandel, brunello, barolo, bordeaux, rioja, shiraz, syrah and Northern Rhone wines.  Natalie MacLean is the author of Red, White and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass. She was named the World’s Best Drink Writer for the articles and wine picks in her free wine newsletter available at www.nataliemaclean.com. Question: I am worried about sulfites in wine. Do all wines have sulfites? Will they give me a headache Answer: All wines contain sulfites (sulfur dioxide) as a natural by-product of fermentation, and very few contain less than the 20 parts per million of sulfites that requires a "contains sulfites" label under FDA rules for wine. Certain wine companies used to make a wine labeled "sulfite free", but quickly took them off the market because of problems with deterioration. Without a minimum amount of sulfites-usually 60 ppm total natural and added-wine will oxidize quickly and turn brown and possibly become prey to bacterial spoilage since sulfites prevent this. Even organic wines have sulfites from the fermentation even if they don't add more. I don't know of any wine that is sulfite free. The wines that have the least amount of sulfites added, however, are good, dry robust red wines because they have so much natural tannin from their black grape skins as a preservative that they don't need to add as much sulfites. Wines that have the most sulfites added are wines coolers and bulk processed light white wines. You can sometimes smell the "sulfur"--rotten egg or burnt match smell--in these types of wine from the sulfites. Too much sulfites ruins the aroma of a good or great wine, so winemakers never want to add too much. Remember, sulfites do not cause headaches-rather they restrict or constrict nasal passages, which can affect asthmatics or borderline asthmatics. Our own bodies produce sulfites every day, and many foods contain sulfites-some more than wine, such as concentrated lemon and lime juice.  Excerpt from Wine Faqs: Real Questions-Real Answers by Anita L. Laraia- www.anitalaraia.com Question: What does it mean to decant wine and how do you do it? Answer: Pouring wine from its bottle into some other container: a carafe, a decanter, even a water jug. Make sure the decanter and the mouth of the bottle are clean. To decant a bottle with sediment, first leave it upright for about a day to settle the sediment at the bottom. For the actual pouring process, stand a flashlight on the table so that it shines upwards—it gives stronger light than the classic lit candle. Place the decanter beside it and pour the wine so that the light shines through the neck of the bottle. This will allow you to see when the sediment is approaching, so that you can stop pouring then. Discard the dregs left in the bottle. Leave younger wines in the decanter for about an hour or two, and older wines anywhere from fifteen minutes to a half an hour. Taste the wine periodically to see how it’s opening up. If you decide that the wine has peaked, but the guests aren’t due for a while, drape a cloth over the top of the decanter to slow aeration.

Natalie MacLean is the author of Red, White and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass. She was named the World’s Best Drink Writer for the articles and wine picks in her free wine newsletter available at www.nataliemaclean.com.
 Question: I am an event planner and I'm doing a dinner in New Orleans at Bella Lunas. I am going with Ferrari-Carano Chardonnay for the white, but I need some suggestions for the red. The meal will be a sit down surf n turf (filet and salmon). The group is very particular (they're in the food and beverage business!). I want the wine to be nice but stay in the $40-$60 a bottle range. Answer: I do a lot of corporate wine dinners myself, so I understand your need to have a blockbuster red for your salmon/filet mignon dinner at Bella Lunas in New Orleans. You have chosen one of my all-time favorite Chardonnays in the Ferrari-Carano. Good for you! Ferrari Carano also does one of the greatest reds in California = "Siena" = Sangiovese/Cabernet blend that is so elegant. I have served it for wine dinners for big time law firms and American Bar Association and they loved it. It usually sells for $40 in retail stores. However, if you want to use a different winery--I'd select Luce which is another "Super Tuscan" blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet from the joint venture of Robert Mondavi and Frescobaldi of Italy. It sells in retail stores for $60 a bottle. There are other "Super Tuscans" from Italy too such as "Avignonesi", Antinori's "Solaia" or "Tignanello", or Banfi's "Summus". The only other grape variety I would recommend for both Salmon and Filet is a PINOT NOIR--and there are excellent examples from Oregon such as Domaine Drouhin, Erath, Eyrie, and Sokol Blosser. Another is Beaux Freres made by Robert Parker the very famous wine writer of the Wine Advocate and his brother.  Excerpt from Wine Faqs: Real Questions-Real Answers by Anita L. Laraia- www.anitalaraia.com Question: My husband bought a bottle of Muscat because the bottle looked nice and displayed nicely. What do I serve with that kind of wine? Answer: Muscat is known the world over as a light to medium bodied, sweet white wine. It can range in sweetness from slight to very sweet dessert style. You don't mention what country or what winery your Muscat originates from, so I am not sure exactly how sweet your particular bottle will be. However, the best food matches for most Muscat wines are: 1. Barbecue Sauce (sweet red sauce version) on any meat; 2. Sweet & Sour Chinese food; 3. Pineapple or Apple Upside Down Cake or any Pound Cake with Fruit topping; 4. Crème Caramel or Flan; 5. Almond or Hazelnut Cookies or Biscotti or Torte; Orange Tart, Macaroons, Fig Newtons, Pumpkin Pie!  Excerpt from Wine Faqs: Real Questions-Real Answers by Anita L. Laraia- www.anitalaraia.com Question: I first drank Sangria in a little Italian restaurant in New York City two years ago, and I immediately fell in love with it, but the restaurant could not, of course, give me the recipe. So, I have been searching for a recipe for a really great Sangria, but have only come across a very generic one out of someone's home cookbook. I know that its main component is wine with a bit of fruit and juice but I haven't a clue as to what the proportions should be! Do you know of any recipes for either Red or White Sangria? If not, could you give me any suggestions of where to look? Answer: Love your e-mail nom de plume! Sangria is made like my grandmother from Italy cooked--no recipe, just a bit of this and a bit of that. It's up to individual interpretation in other words. There is a wine still on the market called YAGO Sangria, available in red and white versions. Very inexpensive, in large size bottles too and ready to be served over ice or chilled. My own recipe for Sangria is take a punchbowl or big pitcher, add thin crosswise slices of say two large oranges, pour in one bottle of dry red wine--any will do but originally it was a Spanish red--add a half-pint of brandy--E&J Gallo California will do--but brand is optional, stir, add about 16 oz. of orange juice (necessary if you add the brandy), sugar to taste, give it a good stir and if you want flavors to meld put plastic wrap over the top and put in the refrigerator for a couple hours or overnight, finally add ice cubes just before you're ready to serve. In fact, you can even add the red wine to the orange slices the night before your party, let them soak together overnight in the fridge, and then before your party add all the other ingredients including the ice cubes. P.S. Some recipes add sparkling mineral water--but that can dilute it too much. It should be refreshing without being watery.  Excerpt from Wine Faqs: Real Questions-Real Answers by Anita L. Laraia- www.anitalaraia.com Question: As a special treat, I am doing a romantic dinner with Crown Roast of Lamb as the main course. I want a special wine to go with it. Answer: The classic wine combination for Crown Roast of Lamb is a Cabernet Sauvignon or red Bordeaux wine. But since your recipe marinates the lamb in rosemary and garlic, I would suggest a "warmer" tasting red wine with more of a Mediterranean flavor such as: COTES DU RHONE from France. It is a blend of the red Rhone grapes including Syrah, and is moderately priced at under $15 per bottle. The more expensive version from the Rhone River region in France is called CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE, and you can find it for $20 and over in most wine stores. Both Rhone reds are spicy, dry, full-bodied red wines. You can also buy SYRAH wines from California such as Stag's Leap from Napa. Another California red wine that makes a perfect partner for your lamb is ZINFANDEL--and you can find many excellent examples in the $15 price range such as: Villa Mt. Eden (delicious, a great value from Napa), Rabbit Ridge, Ravenswood, Roseblum etc. Zinfandel is also a dry red, with spice, black raspberry or blackberry flavors.  Excerpt from Wine Faqs: Real Questions-Real Answers by Anita L. Laraia- www.anitalaraia.com Question: I have been interested in wine for about a year and have tried several different varietals and have seemed to plateau at my current level of understanding. Any suggestions? I also manage in the restaurant business so I am curious about new ways to describe wine to my employees as well. Answer: Just when you think you've had all the varietals available-new ones come out! For instance, California now accepts 8 red Bordeaux varieties for Meritage red wines: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Gros Verdot, St. Macaire and Carmenere. Even I never knew St. Macaire was a separate grape. I did know Carmenere was grown in Chile where it is sometimes mistaken for Merlot, but I never knew it was the oldest of the Bordeaux grapes and has now, after 10 years effort, been brought to the U.S. and successfully grown at Guenoc Winery in Lake County, CA. So, you see there is always something new to learn.  Excerpt from Wine Faqs: Real Questions-Real Answers by Anita L. Laraia- www.anitalaraia.com Question: I read some years ago of a Rhine Valley wine made from, I believe, raisins. It went by the moniker of TBA, an abbreviation of the longer German name that was a mouthful of 10+ letters. It's dessert wine I think. Can you help? Answer: A TROCKENBEERENAUSLESE German wine is abbreviated TBA. It is the most costly, rarest and sweetest of the six German "Pradikat" highest quality wines--that are never artificially sweetened or blended--and can only be made in great vintage years when there is enough sunshine several weeks past the normal harvest time for the grapes to be shriveled to "raisins" by the sun and the "noble rot" fungus called "botrytis" which occurs naturally. That's a mouthful! And a Trockenbeerenauslese is quite a delicious mouthful of sweet, golden-colored, honey flavored (from the botrytis) dessert wine--one of the greatest in the world. Usually sold in small half-bottles because it is expensive. It literally is dessert--and is served chilled, and sipped out of small glasses after a meal or with bread pudding, pecan pie, pound cake and fruit, crème caramel etc. Go to any fine wine store and look in their locked wine vault. The U.S. and other countries make a similar wine but cannot call it by the German name so look for the RIESLING grape, and the English words: "Select Late Harvest" or Botrytis on the label. It will still be rare and expensive.  Excerpt from Wine Faqs: Real Questions-Real Answers by Anita L. Laraia- www.anitalaraia.com Question: What is Shiraz exactly? I have a bottle-what dish should I prepare? Answer: Shiraz is Australia's name for the Syrah grape, which originates from the Rhone River wine region in France. It is very popular because it's smooth with some black raspberry flavors and lots of spice. A Shiraz is great with any type of barbecue or grilled menu-- from hamburgers to steak, ribs, chicken, pork etc. Prices range from $8-$80+.  Excerpt from Wine Faqs: Real Questions-Real Answers by Anita L. Laraia- www.anitalaraia.com Question: I am having a party for 70 people. We will have a punch for non-drinkers. What else should I serve them? We want to have a bottle of each white and red wine at each table. What is a good and reasonably priced option? We are also having a Champagne toast. Any suggestions? Answer: The non-alcohol beverages that I recommend for non-drinkers include iced tea and red grape juice. Both of these have natural tannin which is the anti-oxidant in red grape skins and red wines. The taste of these (except for the sweetness of the red grape juice) will not interfere with the palate if some of these non-drinkers later decide to switch to wine. But sodas and punches do interfere with your ability to appreciate the taste of good wines. The most popular white wine is Chardonnay-inexpensive try NapaRidge, mid-price try Meridian or Wente, expensive try Sonoma-Cutrer, Grgich Hills or any Reserve Chardonnay from California. The most popular red wine is Merlot-inexpensive to mid-priced try Sequoia Ridge or Forest Glen or Columbia Crest; for slightly more expensive try Chateau St. Jean, DeLoach, Kenwood or Whitehall Lane etc. As for the Champagne toast-if you serve just one glass per person, you might be able to afford a good Brut N.V. French Champagne such as Bollinger Special Cuvee, Taittinger Brut La Francaise, Louis Roederer Premier, Laurent Perrier LP, Mumm Cordon Rouge, Heidsieck Monopole Blue Top, Pommery and Pol Roger. All these brands also do top of the line expensive Vintage dated Brut for a spectacular splurge.  Excerpt from Wine Faqs: Real Questions-Real Answers by Anita L. Laraia- www.anitalaraia.com Question: Can I buy a good bottle of Champagne for $100? Answer: You most certainly can buy a respectable bottle of Champagne. All of the following are Brut (very dry) and Vintage dated (from single vintage year declared great). Here are my favorites: Alfred Gratien "Cuvee Paradis", Taittinger "Comte de Champagne" Blanc de Blanc, Veuve Clicquot "La Grande Dame", Dom Perignon, Perrier-Jouet "Fleur de Champagne", Louis Roederer Cristal, Mumm "Rene Lalou", Heidsieck "Diamant Blu", Pol Roger "Winston Churchill", Pommery "Cuvee Louise". Answer: Making good wine at home is more difficult than making beer. My suggestion is that you look in the yellow pages for your city and find a beer & winemaking supplies store. We have one called "Wine Art" in Atlanta. They can give you great advice on how to turn grapes into wine--plus sell you the equipment. There are also local beer/wine making clubs I'm sure-we have several. Look on the Internet too for resources. You don't say what kind of grapes you will be using--it makes a big difference in the kind of wine you can make. My Grandparents made wine in a cellar just like they did in Italy from fresh Zinfandel grapes sent from California at harvest time. To make good tasting wine you need help!  Excerpt from Wine Faqs: Real Questions-Real Answers by Anita L. Laraia- www.anitalaraia.com Question: During my last visit to Italy, I was told of a Grappa. It is supposed to be 90-95 proof. Would you know where in Italy it could be purchased? Answer: Grappa is a grape brandy that can be made in two versions in Italy: 1. The clear, colorless, firewater!, inexpensive brandy distilled from left over grape skins etc. from winemaking in all parts of Italy and available everywhere in the U.S. too; or 2. The golden color, richer, smoother, expensive Grappa made from the finest wine grapes used for famous Italian wines and given their names such as Grappa di Barolo, Grappa di Brunello etc. These are aged in oak barrels like fine Cognac and that's how they get to be so golden and smooth. They are expensive and can be high in alcohol (high proof). They can be found in the U.S. or purchased in the regions where made, i.e. Piedmont for Barolo and Tuscany for Brunello. Any great wine store that also sells brandy in Italy will have them--and ditto in the U.S. The brand name you mention is not in my list of brands available where I live in Atlanta. If a friend has a bottle, ask them "who is the importer or producer named on the label"? Then you can ask your favorite wine store to look it up in the Beverage Journal by wholesaler and importer.  Excerpt from Wine Faqs: Real Questions-Real Answers by Anita L. Laraia- www.anitalaraia.com Question: It is so confusing trying to remember what wines go with what foods. Can you give me some simple rules to follow? Answer: There really are no longer any hard and fast rules about red wine with meat and white wine with fish. In fact, you can have a light red such as Pinot Noir with grilled salmon, or a full-bodied, oak aged white such as Chardonnay with meat if you wanted. The reason behind the old rules is that most dry, red wines have tannin which when paired with seafood makes it taste metallic and unpleasant. And white wines are usually paired with seafood because they are high in citric acid--the same natural acid as in lemons--and are just like squeezing lemon juice on the fish--makes it taste less fishy and is a perfect complement. In fact, some oak aged Chardonnays are both buttery and lemony, both tastes perfect with fish or seafood. As for chilling--white wines should be served at about the temperature of a normal refrigerator--you can chill them for 2 hours in the fridge before serving or no more than half an hour in ice and water. Red wines are normally served at cool room temperature.  Excerpt from Wine Faqs: Real Questions-Real Answers by Anita L. Laraia- www.anitalaraia.com Question: I recently acquired some excellent Spanish wine and noted the term Cosecha on the label of the bottle. Is Cosecha a local name for a grape? I am familiar with the Tempranillo, Garnacha (red) grape varieties. Answer: Your Spanish wine knowledge is really good! You know the pertinent facts. Under the D.O. (Denominacion de Origen) wine laws in Spain, COSECHA means harvest in Spanish, and COSECHA is the Vintage Year of the wine. Vino de Cosecha means wine that is at least 85% from the vintage year on the label- -most are 100% from one vintage year if there is a Cosecha on the label. In other words, a Cosecha 1989 wine is vintage year 1989, the year the grapes were harvested. Good Luck with your further studies! By the way, have you tried the Priorat red wines from Spain? They are delicious Garnacha, very upscale.  Excerpt from Wine Faqs: Real Questions-Real Answers by Anita L. Laraia- www.anitalaraia.com  "The butler was caught taking a swig from the red wine that was to be served with dinner. He denied having any compulsion to drink. I had opened the bottle to allow it to breathe," he explained. "But it wasn't doing very well, so I tried to give it some artificial respiration."" ~~ K. L. Jones Saturday Evening Post, Nov. 2000, Small Masterpieces  Excerpt from Vintage Humor for Wine Lovers by Malcolm Kushner Question: I have been drinking the dry Marsala I use when making Chicken Marsala. It does not taste very good with the dish. What wine would you serve with it? Answer: Dry Marsala is an Italian fortified wine that is great when cooking veal or chicken, but it really isn't very pleasant to drink on its own as a wine. Actually, I prefer red wine with Chicken Marsala--namely the SANGIOVESE--it is the most famous red wine and red grape variety in Tuscany, Italy. You can buy either a "Chianti Classico" or "Chianti Classico Riserva" (the better of the two) which are made from Sangiovese in Tuscany, Italy. My favorite brands of Chianti are: BANFI and ANTINORI's "Aziano". Or you can buy SANGIOVESE by the name on the label such as: BOLLA "Sangiovese" or RUFFINO "Fonte al Sole". These will be very moderately priced at less than $9 per bottle.  Excerpt from Wine Faqs: Real Questions-Real Answers by Anita L. Laraia- www.anitalaraia.com Question: Is a Trockenbeerenauslese as sweet as a Sauternes? Answer: I once measured the sugar content of a Trockenbeerenaulese compared to maple syrup and found the TBA was about 12% sugar by volume and the maple syrup was 88% sugar! The reason a German TBA never tastes as sweet as a French Sauternes is due to: 1. The TBA is botrytis Riesling grape which usually is very high in acidity that balances the natural grape sugar content and makes it appear less sweet; and 2. The Sauternes is made from botrytis Semillon grapes, which are richer than Riesling and produce more body, more alcohol and more sweetness because of lower acidity. But if you thought the Sauternes too sweet, you will probably appreciate the lower sweetness levels in German wine such as Beerenauslese and Auslese (still sweet enough for dessert).  Excerpt from Wine Faqs: Real Questions-Real Answers by Anita L. Laraia- www.anitalaraia.com Question: The best steak restaurants have an overwhelming list of red wines. How do I navigate through the many possibilities? Answer: A good steak pairs best with good red wine. Most of the fine steak restaurants sell much more of the better red wines than white for good reason--the reds help us digest the steak better and keep our arteries clearer! You don't tell me what kinds of wine your like so I'm going to suggest you develop a taste for the great Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot blends from California. Many are called "Meritage Red". Some of the best are: ESTANCIA "Meritage", ST. SUPERY "Meritage", CHATEAU ST. JEAN "Cinq Cepages", CAIN Cuvee, BERINGER "Alluvium", and BEAULIEU VINEYARD "Tapestry" etc.  Excerpt from Wine Faqs: Real Questions-Real Answers by Anita L. Laraia- www.anitalaraia.com Question: Thai food is not only exotic; it is so exciting to eat. We love red curry Thai style, but are there wines that can stand up to it? Answer: I myself had Thai Red Curry Chicken for lunch the other day, so I have it firmly in my memory. Some wine experts would say to serve a Gewurztraminer with it, but really it's almost too spicy a wine for the subtle Thai style. Instead I would suggest either a California or New Zealand SAUVIGNON BLANC- Instead I would suggest either a California or New Zealand SAUVIGNON BLANC- citrusy aroma and flavor. My favorite New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs are Cloudy Bay and Giesen; and from Calfornia I prefer: St. Supery, Guenoc and Quivira "Fig Tree" Vineyard, and Groth. Your local fine wine store can help you find these. Other good choices are RIESLING in the dry style from Washington or Germany, or Australia SEMILLON-CHARDONNAY which is made to partner Pacific Rim cuisine with Asian influences. And if you are a real French wine connoisseur--then try Alsace "Tokay" which is the Pinot Gris grape--it is the only other spicy grape in the world--but much less spicy than Gewurztraminer--and the Alsace syle will be dry. My favorite brand is Lucien Albrecht Tokay Pinot Gris "Vielles Vignes" old vines.  Excerpt from Wine Faqs: Real Questions-Real Answers by Anita L. Laraia- www.anitalaraia.com Question: Since I have become a vegetarian I cannot drink heavy wines. I am making a special polenta main course with a wild mushroom sauce that has port wine in it, what would you recommend as the wine partner? Answer: Your vegetarian meal sounds delicious. I would choose a red since you are using port in the mushroom sauce. However, you do not want to overpower the polenta since it has no heavy meat, so I'd suggest a dry, red with some deep concentration of fruit such as a MERLOT (which is very smooth and the most popular red wine)--you can find many examples in any good wine store, most will be from wineries in California. Choose your price range and they will find one for you!  Excerpt from Wine Faqs: Real Questions-Real Answers by Anita L. Laraia- www.anitalaraia.com  "A typical wine writer was once described as someone with a typewriter who was looking for his name in print, a free lunch and a way to write off his wine cellar. It's a dated view. Wine writers now use computers." ~~ Frank Prial, NYTimes, January 21, 1998  Excerpt from Vintage Humor for Wine Lovers by Malcolm Kushner Question: Since I have been watching my diet, I have been using center cut pork chops as a mainstay. Before I get to the store I would like to know what type to wine to ask for. Answer: Pork, the "other white meat", can marry well with either a white or red wine. But with your black pepper sauce I would definitely recommend a red. The best choice would be the SYRAH grape and its relations because they have a natural pepper quality plus a lot of black raspberry fruit and richness. All versions are dry and full-bodied with a good amount of alcohol. The French originals are called "Cotes du Rhone" (moderately priced label), and include more expensive types such as "Chateauneuf du Pape", "Hermitage", and "Gigondas". Or you can get California SYRAH, such as Joseph Phelps "Vin du Mistral", Sean Thackery, Rowland, etc. And of course you can also get an Australia SHIRAZ which is the same Syrah grape, including brands such as Water Wheel "Bendigo", Rosemount "Reserve", Hardy's, etc. One other possibility is a California "Petite Sirah" which is a clone of the Syrah grape--Guenoc winery does one of the best.  Excerpt from Wine Faqs: Real Questions-Real Answers by Anita L. Laraia- www.anitalaraia.com Question: I wanted to know how to make wine from grape juice. Answer: Sounds easy but it's very difficult, even for winemakers! Basically wine is fermented grape juice--so you could just add yeast to grape juice to create fermentation that creates alcohol. But unless you do this with instructions and the proper equipment and the right grape juice, you will get vinegar the minute the juice stops fermenting and is exposed to the air! My recommendation is to go to a store that sells beer-making supplies for homemade beer and see if they also sell winemaking supplies and kits for making homemade wine. They will give you instructions and tips on how to make the wine. It's tricky so you need professional assistance. That's why we applaud real wineries for making such good wine!  Excerpt from Wine Faqs: Real Questions-Real Answers by Anita L. Laraia- www.anitalaraia.com Question: I eat turkey year round, not just at Thanksgiving. What wines would I serve? Answer: With Turkey, you can choose either a red or white wine depending on your preference. Most people who like lighter wines choose a soft white wine such as RIESLING. It does not have to be a sweet Riesling, it can be a drier style, but will have wonderful aromas of apple and peach. The best Rieslings in the world are made in Germany, but there are many good ones made in the U.S. Choose the medium-dry styles such as Kabinett from Germany. As for a red wine, these days everyone prefers again a lighter dry red and I would choose a MERLOT from California to go with your Turkey-- especially if its a roasted bird!  Excerpt from Wine Faqs: Real Questions-Real Answers by Anita L. Laraia- www.anitalaraia.com Question: When I went into the store to buy sweet red wines for after dinner, I was told by the clerk that most red wines were dry. Am I clueless or are they? Answer: You're not clueless, they are! Yes, over 90% of red wines are dry, so finding a fruity, slightly sweet one takes some thinking. But PORTO is one of the world's greatest sweet reds, and it is definitely an after dinner dessert wine. Best types are "Vintage" Porto, which is the most expensive, but more reasonably priced is "Ruby Porto" or "Late Bottled Vintage" or other red Portos such as Graham's Six Grapes etc. Porto will be sweet red, high in alcohol at 20%. But if you want a lighter red wine that is only slightly sweet, then may I recommend a couple of other wines: LAMBRUSCO Red wine from Italy is a very high volume selling wine in the U.S. and refreshing from slight fizzy quality and can be served chilled and its inexpensive--try the Riunite red. The same company also does a red sparkling wine from Brachetto grapes called: BRACHETTO d' ACQUI from Italy. It's in the $24 price range. Lambrusco is only $5 per bottle. Most Ruby Porto from Portugal starts at $15 per bottle. Other famous sweet red wines include: Banyuls from France, Mavrodaphne from Greece and Recioto della Valpolicella from Italy.  Excerpt from Wine Faqs: Real Questions-Real Answers by Anita L. Laraia- www.anitalaraia.com Question: How do I become a wine writer? Answer: There's no standard way to become a wine writer. I think most wine writers come in through the back door, from another field since there aren’t any wine writing schools. Your best bet is to read and taste all you can, and start cold calling editors. Start with your local newspaper or smaller wine publications, such as a neighborhood newspaper, and work your way up. It's a slow but enjoyable process. I’d say when starting out that you get at least nineteen no’s for every yes. I don’t mean this as discouragement but there are many folks wanting to do this so you have to be persistent (and keep your day job for many years). Sometimes, the most effective approach is to find a publication that doesn’t have a wine column but should. Often the big papers and magazines have regular columnists and they don’t need other articles. You should also try to prefect your craft in several ways: by reading all you can about wine, by tasting all the wines you can and by working on writing itself (take some journalism corses). Find someone, if you can, who is a veteran journalist, perhaps someone at the university to review your work—and pay that person if need be. Even if you can’t get published at first, write some pieces on popular topics (food and wine matching or something seasonal such as great wines for the barbecue or something that’s a bit of a scoop like an interview with a visiting winemaker), polish it up and have it ready. Most editors just want one-paragraph ideas but you’ll have these as samples. Keep trying. It’s lonely and hard for the first two to three years. But if you work at it, some day you may find yourself a full-fledged wine hack!

Natalie MacLean is the author of Red, White and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass. She was named the World’s Best Drink Writer for the articles and wine picks in her free wine newsletter available at www.nataliemaclean.com.
 Question: Could you tell me how long I can keep opened wines? Answer: In general you can store red wines with the cork re-inserted in a cool place for several days before it loses its freshness (turns a little vinegary after that). But the best way to store red wines is with a vacuvin. It is a white plastic pump with a gray rubber stopper that cost about $14 in wine stores. You insert the gray stopper in the half full wine bottle and use the plastic pump to take out the air and create a vacuum, thus preserving the wine longer (air oxidizes wine). With this vacuvin, you can keep reds for a week or two and whites can be kept cold in the refrigerator for about as long. If you use the regular cork in white wines that are stored in the refrigerator, they will pick up off odors from the foods in there--so it's better to use the vacuvin. If you cannot find vacuvin, then buy a simple bottle stopper with those porcelain/rubber rings and metal push down closure--every wine or cooking store sells them for less than $1. The only types of wines that cannot be kept fresh with a vacuvin are Champagnes and Sparkling wines because of their bubbles. Once you have enjoyed some of the Champagne or Sparkling wine, you will have to use a metal closure that screws down over the bottle to keep the wine fizzy. They are better than the other type with metal wings that snap down over the bottle. Both can be found in most wine stores.  Excerpt from Wine Faqs: Real Questions-Real Answers by Anita L. Laraia- www.anitalaraia.com  "I have it on the highest medical authority that I will still be alive at the turn of the century! She is thrilled. ''You know what this means?'' she asks. Of course I know what it means. It means we do not have to drink up all our 1985 and 1986 Chateau Latour at supper tonight for fear I might die with several outrageously priced wines undrunk. For the first time in years, we can go to bed sober."" ~~ (From The New York Times, May 12 1990.)  Excerpt from Vintage Humor for Wine Lovers by Malcolm Kushner Question: I've heard that wine ages faster in splits than in regular 750ml bottles. Is there a rule of thumb I can use for determining how long after the vintage a split will last? Answer: The saying that wine ages more quickly in smaller size bottles such as splits came about because for French Champagne they decant the wine from larger bottles into smaller bottles and thereby lose some of the fizz and let air get to the wine. That's why many splits of any sparkling wine from any country are usually somewhat flat, and do not age well at all. It is not quite so bad for red wines because reds wines have more natural tannin or preservative from their black grape skins, and the wineries that make half-bottles of red wine usually fill and age them the same as they do the larger bottles without decanting. The same may be true of the better white wines in half-bottles such as Chardonnay or white Burgundy from France-- however white wines age more quickly than reds anyway. So there is no hard rule of thumb as to how long any of the "splits" or "half-bottles" will last--the longest lasting being the fine red wines such as Cabernet Sauvignon or Bordeaux in half-bottles, then oak-aged white wines in half bottles. By the way, it costs a winery almost as much money for the glass bottle and cork in the half size as it does for their full size bottles, so wineries have to charge a premium price for these smaller bottles. It really is better to buy the regular size 750 ml bottle and then use a vacuvin or stopper to preserve it until you drink the bottle glass by glass.  Excerpt from Wine Faqs: Real Questions-Real Answers by Anita L. Laraia- www.anitalaraia.com Question: Spicy food is never too hot for me. I like jalapeno and chili peppers. Will I be able to find a wine to go with this type of Mexican food? Answer: There is spicy--and then there is spicy! I like Merlot from Chile, or Malbec from Argentina--both fairly smooth dry reds. But when you "crank it up a notch" and add more peppers-as in Thai or Indian food too--then I choose a more peppery red wine such as French Cotes du Rhone, Syrah from CA or Shiraz from Australia. White spicy wines include Pinot Grigio from Italy.  Excerpt from Wine Faqs: Real Questions-Real Answers by Anita L. Laraia- www.anitalaraia.com Question: What Spanish Rioja under $10 would you suggest? Answer: Every city will have different availability, but here are the most popular brands of Spanish Riojas: Bodegas Montecillo-Vina Cumbrero 1995 or 1996 Marques de Cacerers-Riojas "Crianza" 1995 or 1996 Marques de Grinon-Rioja 1995 or 1996 Conde de Valdemar "Crianza"-Bodegas Martinez Bujanda 1995 Marques de Murrieta-"Crianza" 1995 Bodegas Muga-Torre Muga-Rioja 1995 Federico Paternina-Rioja, Banda Azul, 1995 Faustino-Rioja 1995 If you love red Rioja made from Tempranillo grape, may I suggest you try another great Spanish red made from Tempanillo: Ribera de Duero wines-from one of the hottest new regions in Spain.  Excerpt from Wine Faqs: Real Questions-Real Answers by Anita L. Laraia- www.anitalaraia.com Question: I am going to a wine tasting party on Saturday night. I need to bring a white and red wine from NY State. Do you have any suggestions? I also need to bring a food from that state. Answer: I've always enjoyed the wines from two regions in New York state: The Finger Lakes--especially Chardonnay from Dr. Konstantin Frank; and Long Island--Cabernet Sauvignons from Lenz, Ternhaven, Macari, Bedell are some of the best Cabernets made in America. These are fine, dry wines--forget about those Concord or Catawba sweet native grape wines! Other excellent wine choices from New York state include reds and whites from the Lake Erie and Hudson River wine growing regions. As for food from N.Y., you could cheat and buy any gourmet food item from Dean & Deluca in New York City! Or why not try to find a great New York state Cheddar cheese?  Excerpt from Wine Faqs: Real Questions-Real Answers by Anita L. Laraia- www.anitalaraia.com Question: How does one tell if a bottle of wine is from the Burgundy region or from Bordeaux if it does not tell you on the label? Answer: Ah, there's the rub! They do tell you on French wine labels whether it's a Bordeaux or Burgundy by giving you the "Appellation Controllee" or controlled name of origin which is a place name. But you have to be able to recognize the place names as coming from either Bordeaux or Burgundy. That's why I spend so much time on French wines when I teach Wine School-- you have to familiarize yourself with a lot of place names, i.e. districts, communes, vineyards. But here is a secret shortcut just for you. Look at the shape of the bottles--the Bordeauxs are always in tall, high-shoulder |